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squiz
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Member#: 6644 Location: Registered: 27-05-2007 Diary Entries: 3072
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5th June 2016
Hiking - Walking: Giro dei Laghi (tour of the lakes) Wind Direction: Wind Stength: Surf / Sea State: Air Temperature: Sea Temperature: Weather: As usual sunny start with rain later Max Speed: Distance Covered: 8 miles + (Nautical Miles - unless stated otherwise)
Sunday 5th June – Mega Hike ***** Giro dei Laghi (tour of the lakes) As
usual sunny start with rain later:( 6600ft. Start 8009ft. high point. Out
8hrs covering over 8 miles!!!
We could have died today :(
Peaceful night in our great spot with ‘The Lady of the Snow’ just below
Santuario di Saint Anna. I blinded Mag when I drew the curtains at 7 with
bright sunshine and blue skies! Knowing that it clouded over by midday with
afternoon rain this was too good an opportunity to miss, so we got up
straight away, made a flask and packed our breakfast, Italian bread left
over from yesterday with butter and jam. We were going to walk up to the
Colle di Saint Anna (2308m) which boasts a funky metal cross which looks
like an electric pylon and then see where the path lead us?
We started up the road towards the church past freshly painted names of
famous cyclists including Nibali from last week’s race turning left to
the top car park where we nearly parked last night but a bit exposed and
muddy. Saint Anna stands proudly on a large rock accessed by a huge
staircase and a cross stands on every peak around, a little like religious
littering:( The path was wide and well made at this point winding up to the
Colle, we soon spotted some wildlife in the form of Shrikes and a Chamois
standing on a large rock staring Mag out. We then came to the first of the
day’s many Lacs a small one but very beautiful with lovely sunny
reflections, tripod out for a group shot. The path rose gradually to 2308m
and we encountered our first snow covering half the path! Soon we were
sitting on our small picnic blanket with Mag pouring coffee, eating bread
and jam with stunning views down into Italy in front of us and the French
gorge up to Isola behind us – the border runs along this line of
mountains. I scrambled along the jagged ridge with sheer drops into France
to get a track on the GPS before heading down a little way to a sign
pointing to a leisurely Sunday stroll ‘Giro dei Laghi’ or Circuit of
the Lakes and what a life threatening adventure that turned out to
be!!!!
We were lulled into a false sense of security as the first section was a
steady climb up past a dozing Italian hiker (the only person we saw on this
track) then turning sharply left through narrow rock columns. The rock
strewn gully looked like something from another world but more worryingly
the path disappeared in several places under snow, but being the fearless
mountain hikers we are, we continued on regardless! Luckily for us a couple
of hikers had done the walk recently so we were able to follow their
footprints. We soon saw four young male Ibex by a fort, fun jousting and
the air was filled with a Marmot’s warning call. We had to cross a
narrow wooden bridge holding onto a chain with a huge drop below at this
point. Reaching the Col du Lausfer (2403m) without sliding to our death we
were greeted to some of the best views of the day with a part frozen lac
beneath us and low cloud following us from behind! Now back in France but
still on the trail of the Lake Circuit, we stopped for a quick snack and
drink before continuing, in hind sight we should have returned the way we
came as we really did put ourselves into a life threatening position:(
Again the first section in France was straight forward enough, to another
derelict army barracks, the area is covered with reminders of World War II
from gun emplacements to barbed wire fences! , We saw what might have been
deer in the distance. Then it was down past yet another Lac jumping over
the mountain stream overflow. Round the corner came a dodgy section of
muddy scree to the turning point back into Italy - the Col du Saboule
(2466). We thought that from here it was just an amble back to the van –
we have never been more wrong! The weather by now had turned with low cloud
and rain moving over in waves. On crossing back into Italy we did not
recognise anything and soon realised we still had another valley to
traverse! We tried a path up but that was a wild goose chase taking us even
further away into the middle of nowhere, I was beginning to think we had
made a serious error with the weather closing in and my rescue gps in the
van!
We stopped at another barracks popular with the local wild life to put my
coat and hat on and camera in the rucksack before braving the path back,
well I say path the red and white markers disappeared after only a few
metres and the north facing slopes were covered in snow making seeing the
path impossible:( Our only saving grace was the tracks left by those
previous hikers and we followed them slowly across the steep slopes, me
leading trying to make solid foot prints for Mag to follow. One slip there
and you would slide down the slope to the rocks below, not one of our
better ideas! We kept finding very short sections of path so we knew we
were on the right track with the Laghi Saint Anna supposedly only 50
minutes away (obviously without the snow!!). Mag counted the longest
section of snow at a 1000 short paces, it was stressful and tiring and my
right knee kept playing me up! After what seemed ages the snow disappeared
and we thought we had found the safety of the rocky path, narrow with a big
drop to the left but no snow. Although soaked we breathed a sigh of relief
and happily followed the path until it turned right and the path was
completely blocked by a small section on snow with a sheer drop off the
side onto the rocks below! it was only about 6/7m to safety but we had to
make a decision - retrace our steps in bad weather all the way we had just
come (about 4 hours) or take a chance and very very stupidly we decided to
carry on! Again I lead the way with Mag very close behind, if we were going
to go we would go together! and Mag thought that if she wasn’t close
behind me and had to start out on her own when I was safely on the other
side she would have found it more scary! Facing the mountain, I kicked
footholds straight into the snow and holding onto handfuls of snow we
inched our way across – I can honestly say this is the most stupid thing
we have ever done as, honestly, at any moment we could have plummeted to
our deaths but it was with much relief we made it. Our only war wounds
werer it were freezing cold hands and a racing heart – as the song goes
do something that scares you every day and we certainly did today!
The last section was a breeze, an hour back to the van soaked through and
chilly now past a small herd of beautiful curly horned Mouflons – the
first time we had ever seen them. On past Saint Anna’s Laghi (lac) where
we walked to yesterday - two men were fishing – I know we saw tadpoles
0yesterday but fish!! On past Saint Anna’s statue up on her rock and
then to the road back to the beloved van after 8 hours – tomorrow’s
definitely a rest day! We are thinking a drive and a supermarket will be
thrilling enough!!!
At the van at 4 o’clock it was out of the wet things, diesel heater on
warm up and then delicious Lidl lasagne for tea – what a five-star day I
think – just lucky to survive – we do love the mountains :) As an
added bonus it was a beautiful evening :)
Having returned safely we can now say we think it should be somebody’s
responsibility to put notices up that several of the higher paths are
impassable because of snow – even though it is June! From the first Col
in brilliant sunshine to a nightmare snow covered path in low black cloud
and rain – it was certainly a lesson in how things can change so quickly
in the mountains.
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